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Should posts go in concrete, in packed dirt, or on ground spikes? It's a common DIY fence question, and I've done two of the three. On my 150-foot dog fence I dug holes for the first stretch, then switched to ground spikes on the rocky hill side.
Are fence post spikes as stable as digging holes?
For my fence, they were more stable. The spiked posts ended up more solid than the ones I set in holes I'd dug myself, and they were far easier to install.
Why did you switch?
The hill side was brutal: rocky soil, a long slope, and way too much digging. I cut my 6-foot posts down to 4 feet and drove them into the spikes. It wasn't just faster. It was the difference between finishing the project in a week and giving up.
16-inch or 24-inch spikes?
The 24-inch spikes are sturdier. The 16-inch ones are easier to line up with your measurements and work well for lighter-duty fencing. My 4-foot posts on them have held up great, but I wouldn't go taller than 4 feet on the 16-inch spikes.
Any install tips?
- Don't drive the spikes with a 4x4 in them. Use a 2x4 and a heavy hammer.
- Have backup post spots in mind. Rocks will test your patience.
- For a non-load-bearing fence, packed dirt works for dug posts. Concrete is optional, but it's smart at gates.
Do I need concrete?
Not for a light fence like mine. It's deer netting on 4x4 posts and 2x4 rails, built to keep a dog in, not to hold up a privacy wall. I'd use concrete at a gate. For a tall or solid privacy fence, I can't tell you whether spikes are enough, because I haven't built one.
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